« The truffle keeper | Main | A Note »

If you can't take the heat...

Monday, January 22, 2007 at 10:25AM
Posted by Registered CommenterTselani in

I’ve had a lot of physical and mental challenges in my life. When I ran the world’s largest relay race for the first time, Hood to Coast, I faced the biggest physical challenge that had ever come across my path. Running 16 miles over a period of 28 hours required a lot of training and physical strength, but it was pretty mindless. I didn’t have to think about it too much. I’ve also faced many mental challenges. My jobs in marketing have been numerous over the last 12 years and have required a sharply honed mind. But in terms of physical strength, sitting at a desk 8 to 10 hours a day didn’t require much training.

In my third week as an intern for a three star Parisian restaurant, I need both. I am facing the biggest challenge of my life and it not only requires mental agility but physical prowess as well. Each day I must be able to translate instructions given to me from French to English and then perform them. By the time I crawl into bed at night, I’ve climbed 800 stairs – just in one day. This job is taking everything I have and all the faith and endurance I can possibly muster.

My favorite times are before service. Each one of us is busy preparing our mis en place – cutting potatoes, de-boning chickens, filleting fish, slicing truffles, and peeling baby carrots. There’s not much time dawdle and chat, and the work is almost mesmerizing, passing quickly.

But when service begins, our world changes. Usually the restaurant is booked, meaning we’ll serve about 60 people for lunch and slightly more for dinner. With 25 chefs in the kitchen, you’d think it was a simple task. But it’s far from that.

As the orders roll in, each course is called out to the chefs at the precise moment. As soon as I hear an order that belongs to me – artichoke soup for example – I begin the preparations. I grab a tray, set a plate down, toast the brioche, wipe of the small pot of truffle butter, heat a bowl, and wipe off all the fingerprints from the plates. A small pinch of grated Parmesan is placed in the bottom of each bowl, and the thick soup is ladled on top. It’s rich with cream, truffle oil, truffle juice, and chopped truffles. On top we place three thin slices of black truffle and four transparent slices of Parmesan. The boarders of the plates are wiped again, and a server appears to whisk the tray away.

It’s a simple process really. But when it’s crunch time and you have an order for 11 soups with another four and another six to follow, it’s a mad house. Every moment must be precise and ever step well thought out. Throw someone yelling at you on top of it, and you have my day in a nutshell.

I don’t understand why it’s so common in French kitchens for chefs to yell. I don’t mean simple get-moving-you’re-behind kind of stuff. No, this is more you’re-an-idiot-how-can-you-possibly-believe-you-can-work-here yelling. It’s not kind, and if even if it’s not directed at you, working in that kind of environment can be disconcerting.

Take last Saturday for example. THE Chef (the one who’s name is on the door) works almost ever lunch and dinner service. I say hello to each him every time he walks in and have even had the pleasure of being hit on by him. (I’m being sarcastic here.) Most of the time, he just stands and watches service. He rarely says a thing but observes with a keen eye everything that happens. He also greets clients in his perfectly white whites. Hey, he can do what ever he wants – it’s his restaurant. But last Saturday, I saw a whole new side of him.

THE Chef graciously gave one of the executive chefs the night off. THE Chef worked in his place, calling out the orders as they came in. But his French was so rapid fire, I could barely understand a word he was saying. The pace suddenly was ten times faster, and I’m still a little slow. He began to yell at people for tiny mistakes at the top of his lungs. They weren’t kind remarks either. Since I’m rather sensitive to lots of yelling, I started making mistakes. That’s when he ripped into me. Yes, they were mistakes that shouldn’t have been made – a drip on a plate or a scatter of brioche crumbs on a soup bowl – but I was being yelled like I was a complete idiot. You’d think someone’s life was on the line the way he yelled. But I guess it was even more important – it’s his reputation.

For the first time in my three weeks, I lost it during service. I felt so humiliated for making some tiny mistakes that I began to cry. Hot, shameful tears slowly ran down my cheeks. But I couldn’t stop and wipe them away. I had three orders of amuse bouche stacked up and waiting. I plowed forward, my cheeks burning in disgrace, saying nothing. It was painful, and worst of all, I was taking it personally. How can I not? That’s just the way I am. Thankfully I haven’t spent a lot of time in an environment where someone’s always yelling. But I have to work on seeing things from their perspective and not let it affect me. That’s another blog entry for another time.

Each night when I crawl back home on the metro, I’m physically exhausted. My mind is still racing with adrenaline, my feet aching with the pressure of standing for 13 hours. I peel off my clothes as I enter my apartment and head for the warm, soothing water of the shower. 15 minutes later, I’m burying myself beneath my avalanche of covers and pillows. But my mind is still racing. Physically I’m a wreck. Mentally I could keep going. With only six hours left before I have to return to work, sleep is a precious commodity. By Friday I can barely function, and that’s the hardest day of all.

I keep wondering why I’m doing this to myself. Last Saturday, I wanted so badly to quit. But I didn’t. Everyone at the restaurant has a motivation for being there, except me. I don’t really need it for my resume, I don’t really need to see what it’s like to work in a traditional French kitchen, I don’t even want to work in a restaurant after I’m done. So for now, my motivation is a mystery but one that I need to solve quickly. If I don’t, I fear I won’t survive the coming weeks.

EmailEmail Article to Friend

Reader Comments (8)

Well,Tse if empathy counts for anything this entry brought tears to my eyes and it's due to the example of your incredible spirit shining thru the rough patches of your great adventure.

Why is not a mystery to me, it is the mystery, the mystery of a life lived to the maximum for something you dearly love. The answer is the same when one asks why artists give all they have to create and why your bliss leads you where it has.

At least my hanky is big enough for the both of us.
January 22, 2007 | Unregistered Commenterbutchxox
Tse, go back to the old adage "if it doesn't kill you it will make you stronger." Frankly, I've never thought belittling someone is a strenght builder, so maybe this is not what the old adage refers to...but in a way it works. Also, you are in the ol' apples and oranges situation. You are under the tutelage of a man and practicing an art that has been forever a man's art in France. The fact that you hung in there and went back the next day speaks volumes about you...and ol' Guy will recognize that.

I don't think it's a mystery why you are there and putting yourself through it...this is really your final exam. This will look good on your resume.

Take care, think of you often...I loved the little bit of time spent with you in Paris and Caviar Caspia.

Marcie
January 22, 2007 | Unregistered CommenterMarcie Butler
Wanna trade?! You come here & I'll go there for a week. There won't be any yelling when you get back. ;-)
January 22, 2007 | Unregistered Commenterreuben
hang in there sweetie, you're braver than I am! I'm feeling like a big chicken right now cause I'm going out in to the world. Yes, I've redone my resume and here I go......D
January 24, 2007 | Unregistered Commenterdominique
Tse,

Hang in there girl. The work (and abuse) is hard, but it will pass.

You will be forever richer for experience and have a lifetime to luxuriate in those experiences.

Hang in there girl. We're cheering for you.

Ed
January 24, 2007 | Unregistered CommenterEd of Hood River
You've already said it. You *don't* need this job. So the next time someone lashes into you, instead of getting hot and bothered, simply flash your biggest smile and say "Merci beaucoup, chef! C'est vrai!" Then go back to work humming and smiling. You'll drive 'em nuts, and save yourself a lot of aggravation. :>
January 24, 2007 | Unregistered CommenterShelly
Sorry I posted this to the wrong entry!

Oh my god Tse. Working in restaraunts for so many years I know how tough this must be for you and how rough the kitchen is, especially being in a foreign country. You will get through this and survive even though it may not seem like it. And you'll have such an amazing sense of confidence and accomplishment when it's over -- ready for absolutely anything. You'll be unstoppable! Right after that long vacation on the Riviera of course! This is your boot camp. But just remember (unlike boot camp) you are ultimately in control of your situation -- this should feel empowering when feeling powerless. You are choosing to do this because you want to, not because you have to. But I know how hard it is to be subjected to insults and yelling and not think it's personal, but it really isn't. I think it's the universal culture of the kitchen. It transcends all borders and unites us all! ;-) Try to maintain your sense of humor and recognize the hilarity and insanity of it all. Steve and I are really proud of you. Can't wait to see you and eat all of your creations when you get back here!

Love,
Chris
January 25, 2007 | Unregistered Commenterchris
What a creep! Sat. I was listening to NPR's Wait, Wait Dont Tell Me. A caller had to pick the real news story from 3 highly unikely ones. And the real one...the French Tourist Authority is offering a class to tourists in how to answer in kind to rude French! Would you like more info????
hugs, normas
ps: we're sad Ravenna Gardens has closed in LO, (we met 44 yrs ago on Seattle's #8 Ravenna bus) but we are delighted to hear from your mom that the space will be taken over by ...... St Honore!
come home soon and enjoy an almond croissant with us.
January 28, 2007 | Unregistered Commenternorma prichard

PostPost a New Comment

Enter your information below to add a new comment.

My response is on my own website »
Author Email (optional):
Author URL (optional):
Post:
 
All HTML will be escaped. Hyperlinks will be created for URLs automatically.