Glancing around as I slipped through the door, I found several locals casually lounging at the few small tables.  Empty plates sat in front of them, reading materials in hand.  I approached the counter and eyed all the choices behind the glass case – generous potions of bread pudding with dried fruit, flaky croissants, crumbly buttermilk scones, and homemade muesli with whole milk yogurt, dried fruit and nuts.  Everything is fresh, organic when possible, and most important, seasonal.

I press my lips together in concentration.  How am I supposed to choose?  I want to try it all.  After what seems like an eternity, I make up my mind.  I ask for a slice of cake aux olives, a morning bun, and a lemon tart.  Don’t worry.  I’m sharing!

The cake aux olives is a mixture of gruyere, Niman Ranch ham, olives and herbs baked in a loaf and cut like bread.  Its dense and chewy texture and subtle balance of flavors makes me close my eyes in appreciation.  I say a silent thank you to the culinary gods above for putting a place like this on earth.

The morning bun is just as good.  Its light, yeasty layers are perfumed with the delicate essence of orange.  This is ten times better than any cinnamon roll I’ve ever had.

As I look up from my food reverie, I’m surprised to see the line for goodies is out the door and around the building.  I guess the other passers by couldn’t resist the smell either.  An eclectic mix of people wait in line.  Some read the paper as they stand, others hold hands and point excitedly at the selection.  If they could, I bet they’d press their noses up against the case, just like kids in a candy store.

I could see myself opening a place like Tartine one day.  The wine list on the wall catches my attention.  All the choices hail from small French producers who practice organic or biodynamic viticulture.  This is my kind of place.

It’s time to leave, so I carefully cradle my lemon tart in its to go box house.

Once I’ve waited the prerequisite amount of time (two hours), I succumb to the lemon cream tart.  Tartine makes theirs with sweet butter pastry, lemon cream and a dollop of unsweetened whip cream.  Two slices of poached kumkuat perch on top.  The tart, slightly sweet lemon curd, softness of the cream and butter crunch of the pastry are in perfect harmony.  It’s silky, creamy and sensuous in every bite.  I think I’ve died and gone to heaven.

So if you’re ever in San Francisco, change all your plans and head to Tartine.  Yeah, it’s that good!

Pictures courtesy of Christopher Stark

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