After reading (okay I was really just looking at the pictures) about Chef Michel Roth’s creative cuisine and Chef Eddie Benghanem’s creative desserts in the French magazine Thuries Gastronomie, I was ready to book a table. Roth, a Meilleur Ouvrier de France, and Benghanem now carry the torch at the Ritz’s one-star Michelin restaurant, L’Espadon. Along with the head sommelier, the duo is prized with marrying food and wine to create an amalgam of the very best gastronomy.

As we were seated at a quiet table for two under the two-story high trompe l’oeil ceiling, we were impressed by the grandeur of the room. Delicate white and blue china graced the table accompanied by heavy silver forks and spoons. A huge, but fake, Wisteria tree served as the focal point of the room, while the walls were lined with mirrors and thick golden velvet drapes. The wait staff, dressed in somber black, strode efficiently through the room, bringing menus, the amuse bouche, and tall glasses of Champagne.

We decided to be a bit decadent and order off the al la carte menu. This was our first mistake. Although the set lunch menu offered many excellent choices and a reasonable price, we were lured by the special selection of dishes on the right hand side of the menu. A rather austere and pompous maître d' wrote down or choices, but when we asked for suggestions or had questions, he seemed rather annoyed to while answering them.

While my entrée (appetizer) sounded lovely on paper, what arrived was less than expected. It’s a rare treat when I get to eat langoustines, so I immediately dived into my dish. The heavy flavors of smoke, lemongrass, and ginger overpowered the delicate langoustines, and the overly shrimp-flavored broth did little to help. I passed several forkfuls over to Fabrice who also thought the dish didn’t hit the mark. His lobster salad however did have a nice balance of perfectly cooked lobster meat, avocado, and tomato.

Shortly after our entrée plates disappeared from the table, our plats (main course) arrived. My lamb loin in a rosemary crust and Fabrice’s pan seared pigeon were perfectly cooked rosé. But while both dishes were pretty to look at, there was something missing. There was no magic that I usually associate with Michelin starred restaurants. Again, I passed several bites to Fabrice so my plate looked a little less full.

On to dessert. While Fabrice chose the simple yet elegant chocolate soufflé accompanied by pistachio ice cream, I opted for the Peach Melba. The rich, intense flavor of the soufflé was beautifully complimented by Fabrice’s glass of 20 year old Port, but it could have been better. The same held true for the peach. Although ripe, it lacked any flavor and was slightly mushy.

There are moments of brilliance to this restaurant. The sommelier selected an exceptional glass of Saint Emilion to accompany my lamb, the basil mashed potatoes served with my main course were sheer heaven, and the pommes soufflé served with the pigeon were perfect. With the exception of one server, we both found service rather distant and cold.

And then the bill arrived. When seeing the price, I was silent for several minutes while the half eaten food in my stomach seemed to curdle. The price definitely did not match what we just consumed. Evidently the Ritz feels that the name alone commands a considerable markup. Despite the astronomical prices, L’Espadon is a one-star trying too hard to be a three-star.

We left feeling ill-fed and disappointed. Perhaps my expectations were too high or maybe the restaurant was having an off day. But whatever the reason, I will not be returning unless someone else is buying!

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