Rated the number two restaurant in Paris by the Zagat Guide, Pierre Gagnaire is a feast for all senses. The man himself has been called the Picasso of the plate and throughout the evening he certainly lived up to his name. The evening was not a dinner but an experience – one that will leave a vivid impression on my memory for a long time to come.

To get a coveted reservation, one must call at least one month in advance. We on the other hand had an in. One of the chefs from school is a good friend of Gagnaire, so he called a week in advance and managed to secure a private room for our party of eight. Since the restaurant was closing the next night for the month of August, we felt extremely fortunate.

We arrived at the preordained hour of 8:00 PM dressed to the nines. We were greeted by a host of servers who led us through the rich wood paneled room with hints of grey to our private room. The eight of us were seated at a square table decorated in river polished rocks, orchids and other natural elements. Upon arrival, we felt elegant, refined and very welcomed. Much to my surprise, against one wall were three tiny windows with a view of the kitchen. I spent much of my time between courses standing at the windows absorbing every detail.

I knew before I arrived that there was no question as to what I would order. I cheated and browsed the summer tasting menu online before I arrived. It sounded too splendid to pass up.

Before we ordered, our fabulous waiter, Michel, led us on a tour of the menu in perfect English. He was careful to point out every detail and each description made my mouth water. His small round glasses, waxed mustache and calm professional manner reminded me of a France from long ago. During the evening he treated us like royalty, answering our every question and making us feel very comfortable.

The tasting menu consisted of ten courses – cardio for the senses. Yet nothing was overwhelming or overbearing. In a word, it was perfect.

For the first course, we began with a spider crab ravioli graced by white and green asparagus and a herb anise sauce. The sweetness of the crab is a perfect background for the crunch of the asparagus. The sommelier has chosen the perfect Pouilly Fume to accompany the first half of the menu.

The second course arrives. Blue lobster is paired with cauliflower and broccoli in a light Mersault boullon. On the first bite, the lobster simply explodes with butter in my mouth. Hints of cilantro dart through each bite, which give the dish an interesting flavor. The lobster is just barely cooked so the texture is perfect.

Course three. The waiters carefully set a dish before us of cabbage soup. But this is nowhere near the cabbage I’ve ever turned my nose up at. This is smooth and creamy, subtle and soft, and simply lovely. In the soup are small slices of squid that are unlike anything I’ve ever tasted. The texture is so unreal – not overcooked, chewy or dense. Around the squid is a little drizzle of squid ink sauce and little morsels of frog’s legs. It was by far my favorite of all the dishes.

Course four. We are served a small piece of Merlin, expertly cooked with usual but astounding accompaniments. Under the fish is a small piece of tripe. I’ve never been a big fan of organ meats, but it tastes like the sea and is velvety in the mouth. There’s a tiny onion that tastes like no onion that has ever passed my lips and some rare berries I’ve never heard of.

Course five. It’s time to cleanse the palate. In the center of a beautiful glass plate is a green pea ice cream with mint. It is smooth and creamy, but not like traditional ice cream. There’s a texture behind the smoothness that gives the ice cream a fabulous mouth feel. Next to the ice cream are some tiny artichokes with curry and nettle juice and a tomato and olive oil water. Even though it all sounds incredibly complex, the flavors balanced each other so perfectly to create a harmony rarely seen in a dish.

Course six. Are you exhausted yet? By this point, I’m energized and ready for the next surprise. Arriving on the plate is a toast with a sliver of smoked eel in a soybean sauce. Next to it is some grilled zucchini and chorizo. This is served on a fine white plate that has several holes in the bottom. This plate sits on top of a second deeper plate. I ask Michel what the holes are for, and he expertly explains that they allow vapors from underneath to penetrate the dish.

Of course curiosity gets the better of me, and I sneak a peek underneath. There hidden under course six is course seven. It’s a delicate consommé of beef that melts in your mouth as soon as it hits your tongue. Accompanying it is a rillette of rabbit, grilled eggplant and grapes. Unusual flavors, but like I said, they work well together.

It’s finally time for the main course – milk fed veal with nutmeg, saffron risotto, watercress jelly, tamarind and a veal gravy. I don’t think you need me to tell you how amazing it was.

But we’re far from being done. Next comes the cheese plate that is probably the most beautiful cheese plate I’ve ever eaten. I can’t remember the exact names of the cheeses, but they were all made from ewe’s milk and a delight.

Okay, that's it for part I. Stay tuned for part II with desserts, the kitchen and the service. 

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