The INAO (L’Institute National des Appellations D’Origine) or the National Institute of Controlled Appellations of Origin, was created by the government in 1935 with two missions. One, INAO specifies the appellation boundaries (or regions) for grape growing. Two, the INAO defends these appellations in France and around the world. You wouldn’t believe how much is involved. But this is France, and anything involving government is complicated.

In it’s primary job, the INAO sets the boundaries for AOC vineyard areas. AOC stands for L’Appellation D’Origine (Appellation of Origin). In order for a wine to bear the AOC stamp, it must pass a vigorous number of tests.

First, the INAO defines the regions of production. This is very important because each region has it’s own specific characteristics – terroir, weather, etc. Second, in each region the grape variety must be regulated. For example, only Pinot Noir grapes are used in red wine production in certain regions in Burgundy. Third, within each vineyard, the yield is regulated. Vineyards are not allowed to overproduce. Overproduction leads to a lower quality of wine. Fourth, there must be a minimal degree of alcohol in the wine. If a wine falls below that amount, it cannot receive the AOC stamp. Finally, the wine must taste like the region. If it does not adequately represent the appellation, then the winemaker must sell the wine as table wine. Like I said, there are a lot of rules here.

In its secondary job, the INAO must defend the French appellations. The INAO actively searches out offenders and attempts to make changes or strike up agreements. This is why only fizzy wine from the Champagne region can be called Champagne. If grapes are used from anywhere outside the region, the wine cannot bear the Champagne name. This is why you see a lot of sparkling wines from California. They are made in exactly the same way, but because of INAO regulations, the name cannot be used.

Trust me when I say this is all very complex. But like I said, this is France, so it’s par for the course.

But as complex as the rules are, I still don’t understand why it’s so hard to read a French label on a bottle of wine. In the States, it’s pretty straightforward. You have the producer, the type of wine (Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, etc.), the year, a pretty picture, and on the back you may get a lovely little history. Not so in France.

Here’s what does have to appear on a French label: a statement that it was produced in France; the region in which the wine was produced (and from that you have to deduce the grape variety); the AOC name; name, address of the shipper, domain or chateau; name and address of the importer; percentage of alcohol by volume; net bottle contents; the vintage; name of the chateau; name and address of the bottler if not bottled at the chateau. Phew, that’s a lot to digest in one reading! Perhaps the French make their wine labels so confusing so the rest of the world will give up, and the French can keep all the good stuff for themselves.

But it’s important to wade through all the confusion because, in my small opinion, French wine is lovely. Have you ever had a plate of oysters fresh from the sea with a nicely chilled Muscadet? Or how about a young Burgundy with a simple roasted chicken? A well-aged Bordeaux with a medium rare filet? Of course there’s nothing so wonderful as champagne and caviar. So the next time you’re at the store, pick up a bottle or two and read the labels for fun. They give one a try and see what you think. I’ll be interested to hear your perspective!

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