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Bordeaux

Saturday, May 6, 2006 at 03:59AM
Posted by Registered CommenterTselani in

We were all going a little stir crazy being in the city. Since it was a three day weekend, six of us decided to head down to Bordeaux for a mini vacation. At 11:30 on Saturday, we boarded the TGV bound for wine country. We were all rather quite on the ride down since we’re studying for our written exams the following week.

Bordeaux is the second largest city in France and often considered the country’s second capital. It sits on the edge of a river that flows a short distance to the ocean. Think Portland. Rather than tall, modern building that one would expect in a large city, Bordeaux is packed with old stone architecture dating back many centuries. Streets are paved with cobblestones, and gothic churches anchor small squares.

We take a tram from the train station into the city and get a great tour of the area. We’re staying at Acanthe Hotel. This small and charming hotel has great prices (we paid 45 Euros per person for two nights) and clean, comfortable rooms. From the hotel, we can walk to everything, so it’s location is ideal.

Once settled, we’re off to explore the city. We wander down the tiny streets filled with clothing stores, wine shops and restaurants. Occasionally a street will lead us to a quaint square dotted with cafes and bakeries. The girls find a Venetian glass store filled with shiny things, so we each buy a ring to commemorate our little vacation.

After about an hour, our stomachs are gurgling, so we stop at a small café on the edge of a square. We sit under the trees and order wine and salads. I opt for a salad chevre chaud (warm goat cheese salad). The cheese is grilled on toast points and glazed with a bit of jelly. A nice hint of sweetness with the tangy cheese and tart Balsamic reduction.

We’re all winding down a bit, so some of us decide to take a quick nap before dinner. We wake around 8:00 and hang out in our PJs drinking several bottles of Bordeaux and munching on potato and tortilla chips. Not exactly the best paring we could come up with, but it works.

Evidently Bordeaux is well known for dishes such as confit de canard (duck confit). If you’ve never tried this dish before, it’s quite heavenly – duck leg and thigh preserved and cooked in it’s own fat. This is not a dish for dieters for sure.

Based on a recommendation from Ashley’s roommate, we choose a bistro on the corner of a large square. Dominique and I start with oysters that are fresh and salty. I of course order the duck confit that is wonderful. We indulge in two very nice bottles of Bordeaux. The nicer one needs a bit more breathing time as it’s rather tight. As Lani says, “This wine had a wedgie.” But the more it breathes, the more voluptuous it becomes.

Tummies full, we decide to see a little nightlife. We walk to the edge of town where all the bars are, a pick one with outdoor seating. Over a round of beer, we play I Never and learn some very interesting things about ourselves! We then head inside the bar and dance for two hours to a combination of Latin, Bollywood, and Trance music. By 2:30, we’re exhausted, so we make our way back to the hotel and fall promptly into bed.

The next morning, we head to Saint Emilion – one of the prettiest villages and wine destinations in Bordeaux. The train station is a mile and half from town, so we walk through budding vineyards and stone buildings.

Once in the town, we are instantly charmed. It’s picture perfect with winding cobblestone streets, countless wine shops, trendy boutiques, and ancient buildings. It’s quiet and serene and the air smells green and fresh. We climb the streets upwards and stumble on a square filled with cafes. It’s beginning to rain, so we pick the one with wide, cream colored umbrellas and sit outside. It rains harder as soon as we sit down, but we’re dry and hungry.

I can’t help myself, so I have exactly the same menu as the night before – oysters and duck confit. With it, I have a flight of three wines – two red and one white. Each one is so unique and foreign on my tongue. But I enjoy them all. We’re laughing and being a bit silly, a bit American, but we love every minute.

After lunch, we climb to the top of the hill to an old church that looks over the valley. It’s picturesque and beautiful. It feels very refreshing to be here. Dominique and I have a photo shoot, pretending to be wealthy French women on vacation.

It’s getting close to evening and the departure of our train, so we head down the hill in search of a wine store. We find a fantastic place called Bordeaux Classique that pours us a wide selection of wines. I always though Bordeaux was entirely made from Cabernet grapes, so I’m surprised to find that those from Saint Emilion are a blend of Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Some are light and almost refreshing while others speak of coffee and chocolate. The Australian and French shopkeepers give us a brief history of the region and teach us about the different types of wine – Grand Cru, Grand Cru Classe and Premier Cru Classe A and B. It’s a great education in 45 minutes.

We get so caught up in tasting that we miss the first train. It’s not a big deal since there’s another one in an hour. Loaded down with 15 bottles of wine (I bought six), we decide to make the 15-minute walk back to the train station.

This is when it begins to rain. Not a problem, I think to myself, I’m well prepared with a raincoat and umbrella. Boy was I mistaken. As soon as we’re out of town, it begins pouring in sheets. It seems through out clothes and soaks us to the core. The wind starts blowing, slapping the rain in our faces. Overhead the thunder and lightening rips through the sky. It even begins to hail slightly. Our cardboard wine boxes quickly disintegrate so we’re left clutching the bottles to our chest. All we can do is laugh and say, “Are you kidding me?!?!?”

By the time we reach the station and find cover, there’s not a single dry spot on any of us. Clothes, hair, purses, wine – everything is completely saturated, and we have another 45 minutes to go before the train arrives. Thank goodness the French rail system is very prompt. I just feel sorry for the people sitting next to us who are nice and dry.

After hot showers and time under the covers, we opt for an Indian food place just down the street. It’s Dominique’s birthday, so we toast to her and an adventurous day. We stuff ourselves and by the end of dinner, we’re all ready for bed. Thank goodness our train doesn’t leave until 12:30 PM so we can sleep in.

What a great trip – something I’ll never forget. I’d definitely go back to Bordeaux, but next time I think I’d stay in Saint Emilion. It’s way too charming and far enough a way to feel like you’re on vacation.

Now I just need an occasion to drink my wine! I’m sure I can find plenty in the weeks to come.

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Reader Comments (1)

Oh, Tse, reading this evokes that area so well! Byron likes to stay in a small auberge in a suburb of Bordeaux -- La Reserve in Pessach l'Alouette. I think it had probably seen better days -- linens not too clean and stagnant pond a breeding ground for mosquitos (!) -- but the kitchen was splendid. We spent two days slowly touring the whole area, and St. Emilion was my favorite, too, although there were some spectacular wineries and buildings all along the way. St. Emilion also has a small but experienced coterie of lace makers, and I bought some beautiful lace doilies there. And the photos looking down on all those roofs are still memorable! We had lunch at a very upscale winery -- want to say that it had the word "keg" or "cask" or "barrel" -- where I ate the most delicious asperge roti avec un oeuf pochee that I ever sank a tooth into. So glad you are sharing this with us all! I know your visit when your Mom arrives is going to be wonderful -- take me with you, especially to Kaviar Kaspia! xoxo Carol PS If you get around the corner to Fauchon, will you buy a little clay pot of herbes de Provence to send back to Oregon? Thank you!
May 15, 2006 | Unregistered CommenterCarol

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