Since I have quite a bit of time on my hands, I decided to embark on a new adventure: to find the best hot chocolate in Paris. Now don’t get too jealous – it actually is hard work and can be disappointing, especially when you come across ones you don’t enjoy. I’m also not a big dark chocolate fan. So why subject myself to this challenge? For you my dear readers. Only for you!

Before exercising my taste buds, I needed to do some research. There are many people, especially Americans, who have traveled the same path and written about their experiences. After making a list of 25 different recommendations, I enlisted the help of my dear friend Nina. She too has some free time, and it always helps to compare notes.

Our first trip was to famed ice cream palace, Berthillon. I’m crazy about their wild strawberry ice cream that is only in available for three short months in the summer. Unbeknownst to me, they have a tea salon next door where you can sit down and enjoy their ice cream. But we are here for a different reason. Nina and I both order the Chocolat Chaud Viennoise (hot chocolate with whip cream). It comes in a large, low mug with a frothy top and rich chocolate fragrance.

With the first sip, I get a mouthful of soft foam with just a hint of vanilla. It’s necessary to tip the cup further back to get the deep chocolate flavor. This of course results in a huge foam mustache, and we explode into giggles as we look at each other. We’re guessing the hot chocolate is made by melting chocolate in cream or whole milk. This is ladled into the cup and topped with the frothy vanilla spiked milk. A generous dollop of real whip cream sits on top, gradually melting into the foam. The chocolate part is sinfully smooth and not too sweet. I already love my work!

At Café Flore in the bustling neighborhood of Saint Germain, the hot chocolate is simple and straightforward. Served in real silver pitchers with little cotton puffs to protect your hand from getting burnt, the chocolate is thick, silky and luxurious. Similar to Berthillon, the flavor is rich and chocolately, but a mouthful feels like velvet on your tongue. The chocolate is accompanied by glasses of water, and it’s necessary to take sips now and then to refresh and cleans the palate. As the chocolate sits, a thick skin forms on top. When lifted out with a spoon, it’s almost like eating old-fashioned chocolate pudding. But after a cup and a half, I have to stop as it’s a bit overwhelming.

For our third visit, Nina and I chose a small, hidden tea salon called L'Heure Gourmande. Tucked in a tiny back alley, we were immediately charmed but how quaint it was. I wish I could say the same for the hot chocolate. Here we order chocolat chaud a l’ancienne (hot chocolate done in the old, traditional style). The server comes to the table with a big, white porcelain pitcher that has a wooden stick coming out the top. This is for mixing the hot chocolate while it’s in the pot. I’ve seen items like this in antique stores and always wondered what they were for. Now I know.

The chocolate when poured is super thick and deep in color. But something is odd – there’s no rich chocolate odor wafting up from the cup. One sip and I’m disappointed. On the tongue the texture is grainy, almost curdled so you’re tempted to chew. Mine needs a bit more sugar, so a drop a sugar cube on the surface. Much to my surprise, the cube just sits there without sinking. I poke at it with my spoon and it is gradually consumed by the thick liquid, but not without a struggle. As it sinks to the bottom, the sugar cube sends up tiny air bubbles, like the Titanic begging for rescue.



We sit around the table and contemplate our rather full cups. What could make hot chocolate be this thick yet taste so weak? And then we realize the secret. Some places use flour to thicken their chocolate. It’s like the café made a béchamel (cook butter and flour together, then add milk and cook until thickened) and melted chocolate into it. To me, it wasn’t worth the $7 per cup that we paid. A big disappointment in my book.

After my appointment at Guy Savoy to meet the chefs, Nina met me on the Champs Elysees to visit the very famous and often crowded Laduree. Laduree is famous for their macarons, and back when we were in Basic, a few of us got a tour of the basement pastry kitchen. Laduree is on several hot chocolate lists as being a perfect blend of creaminess and chocolate flavor. I’m sorry to say, but I disagree.

The chocolate is served in small, white and teal porcelain cups. Although the flavor of chocolate is present, it’s not as rich as I would like. Again, Laduree must use flour to thicken their hot chocolate – rather heavy-handedly. Afterwards I purchase some macarons from a very unfriendly person behind the counter. To me they’re not as good as Pierre Herme, so I pass them off on my roommates.

Having two disappointing tastings in a row led us to select Angelina next. Rated by most as the best hot chocolate in Paris, we had to put our taste buds to the test. Since we arrived at 10 AM, we opted to have breakfast as well. The particular version we’re drinking is called Chocolat Africain named for the Ivory Coast cacao beans that are used.

Our hot chocolate arrives in a fat, white pitcher with a dark skin on top. Accompanying the pitcher is a tall crystal glass filled with fresh whip cream. My mouth is already salivating and I haven’t taken a sip. The first thing we notice as we pour is the heady aroma of chocolate. The texture is sinfully thick without a trace of graininess. We spoon thick clouds of whip cream on top and watch it slowly melt into the silky texture below.

The first sip sends us to heaven. There’s a slight hint of toasted hazelnut lingering in the background. The flavor is intensely chocolate and fairly sweet – the best we’ve had so far. Our conversation falls silent in admiration.

Next stop is Queen Ann, a tiny tea salon hidden in a rather gloomy side street near the Pompidou Center. Inside the salon, the atmosphere is quiet and relaxed. In fact we are the only ones there. We order the l’ancienne version of hot chocolate and hope it’s nothing like the previous versions we’ve tasted. It’s not.

The chef brings us two very hot cups in blue and white printed china and an extra pitcher in case we feel like indulging. We immediately smell deep, dark chocolate and close our eyes in appreciation. The first sip is ultra rich, flavorful and thick. It too must be made with flour as a thickener, but it’s far from grainy or chewy. Since it’s 4:00 PM, the chef and the only server sit down at a table close by and enjoy their mid-day meal. Nina and I nibble on crumbly scones served with crème fraiche and jam. What a lovely way to spend the afternoon.

Our final stop takes us to delicabar at La Grand Epicerie – the most luxurious food store in all of Paris. We perch on brightly colored chairs along with well-dressed and well-coifed women who are out for a day of shopping. Although the chocolate needs a healthy dose of sugar, it’s quite nice and before I know it, my cup has been drained. The flavor is not too intense, but quite chocolately nonetheless. It’s actually quite dreamy as is the chef who created it, Sebastian Gaudard. His cookbooks line the wall with his youthful and handsome face staring at us from the cover. Perhaps that’s what makes it taste so good!

So, after our many hours of diligent work, here are my favorites in order from best to worse. Although Angelina was as wonderful as everyone said it would be, I actually picked Berthillon. I’ll be going back there in the near future…

Berthillon
29-31 rue Saint Louis en l’Ile
4th arrondissement

Angelina
226 rue de Rivoli
1st arrondissement

Cafe de Flore
172 boulevard St-Germain
6th arrondissement

Queen Ann
5 rue Simon-le-Franc
4th arrondissement

delicabar
At Le Grand Epicerie
26-38, rue de Sèvres
7th arrondissement

Laduree
75 avenue Champs Elysees
8th arrondissment

L'Heure Gourmande
22 pass Dauphine
6th arrondissement

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